Today began with threatening skies, and we took our umbrellas and jackets with us thinking they might come in handy. However, the good weather prevailed and we spent the morning in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a lovely town situated on islands bounded by the many streams of the Sorgue River, as well as some canals. We saw the antiques market area on the way into town, but passed that up in favour of the more interesting (to us) farmers' market. There were many cheese vendors - the kinds of cheese are amazing - made from cow's milk or goat's milk, and flavoured with tomato or basil pesto, smoke, truffles, etc. Likewise the sausage varieties are endless. The amusing thing to us was the fact that though there were lots of flies buzzing around, none of the cheeses or sausages were protected from the insects. Each vendor puts out samples of their wares, so you could, in fact, sample your way through lunch. There were also leather bags, clothing, cashmere sweaters, shoes, underwear, leather bags, linen housewares, jewelry, wooden goods made from olive wood, olives and the products made from them, like tapenades, fresh fruits and vegetables, and honey. The market stretched throughout the old town, winding through the streets and alleys. We stopped for lunch in a small restaurant, and Bryant had a "faux fillet de boeuf" (tasty, but not very tender) while I had a "Salade Ardechoise" with thinly sliced ham, tomato, lettuce, and walnuts that tasted totally different from the ones at home. On the way back to our car we got lost for a bit, but a parking attendant straightened us out, and gave us good directions.
We decided to stop at the little village of Oppede-le-Vieux, or old Oppede (there is a new one nearby), on the way back to Apt/Villars. We are so glad we did - it will be a highlight of our time here. The original village is approximately 900 years old, and is built into a mountainside so was a noted fortress in its time. As time passed, it was abandoned and repopulated several times. Today it is inhabited by a few hardy souls who have purchased some of the remaining buildings and are renovating them. Part of the town may have been put in trust and is protected as a historic site. The stonework is incroyable.....the alleyways are steep and cobblestoned......we made it almost up to the original church at the top of the village, and our legs know it! The village is comparable to Civita de Bagnoregio in Tuscany, in that the villages were both abandoned and are now falling slowly into the valley below but being saved by a few wealthy renovators.
Today was a great day....we are weary and about to get dinner here in Villars at our apartment. Til tomorrow.......
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